These recommendations are listed from my personal experience and research as a non-professional in the skincare business. Before trying any new skincare products, you should always consults a professional and conduct your own research.

Once upon a time, I used to pick my skincare products based on asinine things like; whether it claimed to cure my acne overnight, how compelling the commercial was, or whether a celeb with clear skin said how much they loved it (unbeknownst to me, they were probably paid to say it!). Needless to say, I had a cabinet full of products that were okay at best, or flaring up my acne beyond belief at worst. It was until I was in my mid 20’s that I finally started to turn the product packaging around, and start doing actual research on the ingredients. I would then only buy a product if the ingredients in them were addressing my skincare concerns, and weren’t just another pretty package.

When I really started getting into skincare, I would turn over each and every product, and look at the ingredients list. One thing that I noticed was that above the full list of ingredients was a short list (often just 1 or 2 ingredients) that were listed as the “active” ingredients.

What in the world is an active ingredient?!

Well, I learned that active ingredient (often called just “actives”) are just that: active ingredients. This short list were the ingredients within the product that have been scientifically shown to address the specific skin related concern that the product claims (source). An example of this is if you have a product that claims to address dryness and moisture retention, and it contains hyaluronic acid (more info on this active below) as an active ingredient, then it may actually work!

Now, while the active ingredients are often doing the heavy lifting, that doesn’t mean that the “other” ingredients don’t matter, because they do!. These ingredients will interact with (or at the very least be a medium for) your active ingredients. So, if you see a product with salicylic acid (again, more info below) to address acne concerns, that’s a +1. However if the first “other” ingredient is petroleum, which is known to be comedogenic, then that’s -10,000 points. All of the ingredients matter, but the active ingredients are crucial for achieving the skincare results that you want.

So without further ado:

My Favorite Active Ingredients for Clear, Acne-Free Skin

Also, this post contains affiliate links of which I receive a small commission at no extra cost to you. All of my opinions are my own.

BHAs-Salicylic Acid

BHAs are 1 of 2 hydroxy acids that are used to combat different skin concerns. Beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) are lipid-soluble fruit acids whose structure allows them to penetrate the sebaceous follicles and provide anti-inflammatory aid (source).

BHAs are active ingredients that I have been using since before I even knew what BHAs were. A very common BHA is salicylic acid. I had been using salicylic acid since I was a teen, as it is often used in over-the-counter acne treatment products. They are added to skincare products because of their ability to penetrate the skin and clear out any acne-causing agents within the pores and exfoliates dead skins on the surface of the skin (source). For me, salicylic acid has been particularly helpful when it is found in cleansers and moisturizers. It is especially effective when I use it alternatively with benzoyl peroxide.

Benzoyl Peroxide

Benzoyl Peroxide is an active ingredient that can often be found in over-the-counter acne treatment products. Benzoyl peroxide is an anti-inflammatory, anti-microbial active ingredient that blocks the formation of comedones (source).

Benzoyl peroxide can be found in several different strengths, typically ranging from 2.5-10%. I’ve used it at both ends of the spectrum and had success with both. When I was a teen, one of the only acne treatments that healed my skin was the Proactiv System, which contains 2.5% benzoyl peroxide. This amount was gentle enough for me to use twice daily without the irritating effects that benzoyl peroxide can sometimes cause. I have also used it at a 10% strength in the form of the Urban Skin Rx Advanced Acne Serum and absolutely love it (as I said in a previous post). While benzoyl peroxide can be a bit much for those with sensitive skin. As someone who doesn’t have sensitive skin, I find that it works even better (and is much less irritating) when used interchangeably with salicylic acid. They are truly a dynamic duo!

AHAs- Glycolic Acid

Alpha hydroxy acids are commonly called AHAs in the beauty community. It is another hydroxy acid, like the BHAs mentioned above, but this hydroxy acid works more on the epidermal and dermal levels of the skin to exfoliate, moisturize, firm and lighten the skin, synthesize collagen, and reduce fine lines (source).

One of my favorite AHAs is glycolic acid. Glycolic acid is the smallest of AHA compounds and is often touted for its ability to treat hyperpigmentation (source). Its exfoliating properties have been particularly helpful in helping me to lighten the hyperpigmentation that have often followed my breakouts. It’s ability to exfoliate has also helped with my being able to control my breakouts and make my skin glow by keeping those upper layers sloughed off. I have used glycolic acid as a more concentrated peel, and in a serum (the Urban Skin Rx Acne Serum also containing glycolic acid). My favorite way of using glycolic acid is in the form of a night cream (*cough* *cough* Origin’s Night-A-Mins), as a cleanser (like these cleansing pads), and toning pads (like these).

Ascorbic Acid- Vitamin C

Vitamin C is an antioxidant that is all over the skincare market. Most people are buying products that contain vitamin C (or ascorbic acid) because of it’s abilities to prevent and heal UV damage, and synthesize collagen (source). It is also often considered the “go-to” active ingredient when you are looking to brighten or even you complexion (source). Vitamin C’s topical use effectiveness is still debated as more research is needed. However, most studies conclude that the use of topical and dietary vitamin C could be beneficial for healthy skin.

Now this is completely anecdotal (because my personal experience is a biased research study with a sample size of 1! LOL) but I have seen serious benefits from using a vitamin C serum. I have seen a lightening in my dark spots, as well as an increase in the suppleness of my skin (more than likely due to the increased production of collagen). The studies may not have reached a conclusion on vitamin C, but I sure have. Vitamin C is a skincare holy grail that’s here to stay in my routine.

Hyaluronic Acid

Hyaluronic Acid has been having a serious moment! This active ingredient is making waves because of its abilities to keep connective tissues moisturized and lubricated (source). Because of this, it is the “it girl” in skincare products because of how well moisturized it leaves the users’ skin which aids in maintaining youthfulness and combating the signs of aging (source).

I’ll admit, as someone who is oily and acne-prone, I never put much of an emphasis on the moisture-levels of my skin. However, when my skin started to become more combination, and when I completely ruined my skin barrier I started to focus on how to regain those moisture levels and that’s when I started to research hyaluronic acid. Lately, I’ve been loving the CeraVe facial moisturizer that contains hyaluronic acid and my skin as been soft as a babies bottom. 🙂

Retinol- Vitamin A

Retinol is a derivative of vitamin A that is added to skincare products. This active ingredient is often found in over-the-counter products to treat signs of aging such as fine lines and wrinkles (source). It is also known for it’s ability to treat uneven skin tone, shrink the look of pores and increase skin’s firmness (source). While retinol can be easily found, it should also be noted that the retinol containing products at your local CVS are not the same as a retinoid that would be prescribed by a Dermatologist. Vitamin A is a relatively unstable molecule (source), and can sometimes cause dry, flaky skin. Nevertheless, it is still considered an active ingredient that should be apart of anyone who’s trying to combat signs of aging’s arsenal (source).

Retinol is something that I have only been using off and on for about a year. From my short-term use, I am finding that retinol helps to make my skin softer and smoother. While I don’t necessarily have wrinkles just yet, I do have discoloration from hyperpigmentation and the retinol helps to even that out. I like to use retinol about 2-3 times a week at night for about 6-8 weeks, and then I stop for about a month. I find that by using it sparingly, but regularly, I still see results without the flaky, dry skin that sometimes accompany it’s use.

Conclusion

It took me a while to finally figure out how to know what ingredients will actually help me to achieve the results that I was looking for. In the end, research, accompanied by trial and error is the key. This list of active ingredients are items that I will probably always use (or at least recommend).

What active ingredients can you not get enough of?